My definition? Let's see... I like these two definitions of ultimate:
a) Of the greatest possible size or significance; maximum
b) Representing or exhibiting the greatest possible development or sophistication
However most of these characters don't excel at anything. Or they aren't optimized to extent some other SPF characters are. Pretty much Jack of all trades but Master of none. You pick (almost) any of those characters and it's not even hard to create character that can beat them for selected goal. They aren't best at MF, they aren't fastest at area cleaning or best at pvp. Can't They are good at bits of everything but I wouldn't say that zaph can say they are best at *something*
Instead of beating around the bush, I'll give you example. His javazon uses CoH, total of 20 IAS, Moser's (wat) and similar stuff. She doesn't have teleport to position himself, and honestly, shooting for 75 allresist with javazon is just lol. When I made my lvl 99 amazon she had all negative resists (-70 -70 -35 -70) for running CS and I had absolutely no problems. I used enigma for mobility, and when I moved to WSK/Baal I just replaced FRW/mana charms I used in CS for life/LR. I didn't need to sacrifice anything, nor 55 IAS for best attack speed or 65 fcr for mobility with enigma, and still, my amazon has highest damage output, possibly of all characters made on SPF up to this day, and considering she is level 99, believe me she didn't really die (one death at 97 and none at 98 so probably over 150h without death). As for cookie cutter thing, just saying Areat's, HLW, Griefs, Fort, SoE etc is as cookie cutter as it goes, and not best barb build anyway, but nvm me on this.
You need to know limitations and strengths of build to know where you can compensate one thing for other and make best characters possible. Some of zaph's characters aren't designed with that mindset so I can't recommend his build to anyone for anything, hence no ultimate character. That's at least my take on it.